Hair analysis is vital during consultations with your clients. Not only does analyzing your clients’ hair health help you do your job, but it also lets your clients know you truly care about their needs. This article will discuss three tests you can perform to determine hair health.
POROSITY
Porosity is the measure of how porous hair is, which affects the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. Hair that’s damaged is too porous. It’s prone to breaking and looks dry and dull. On the other hand, hair with low porosity will be smooth, but may lack moisture. This can make the hair more resistant to treatment. Hair that’s only slightly rough usually means it’s healthy.
Testing for Porosity
Select an individual hair with one hand. With your other hand, slide your thumb and index finger down the hair shaft from the tip to the base in order to determine the roughness or smoothness of the hair. Based on your results, follow these tips to maximize treatment:
- Smooth – Hair is not porous enough, meaning it takes longer to respond to treatment. Adjust your processing times accordingly.
- Rough – Hair is too porous and has probably been treated before. Use a pre-conditioning product.
- Highly damaged – Hair is rough, brittle, and dry. It’s probably been over-processed. Use a repair treatment; it may also be necessary to cut out the damaged parts.
DIAMETER
Diameter is simply the measure of the thickness of hair. Fine hair is more prone to overloading, while thick hair generally takes more time to react to a treatment. Knowing the true diameter of hair will help you decide how to proceed with color, perm, and repair treatment.
Testing for Diameter
For the best results, use a calibrator to obtain an evaluation of diameter. With the calibrator, place a single strand of hair between the gauges and read the scale. Because of the shape of hair, you’ll need more than one reading to get the most accurate conclusion.
ELASTICITY
Elasticity shows how easily hair bounces back to its original size. Healthy, well-conditioned hair is springy and bouncy. It can be stretched up to one-third its length and then return to its original size. Slightly damaged hair won’t completely return to its original length, and highly damaged hair will break when put under pressure.
Testing for Elasticity
To determine elasticity, detach a strand of hair from your client’s head, and then proceed to stretch it between both your thumbs and forefingers. Depending on what happens, you’ll know if extra care is needed before treatments or styles.
IMPORTANCE OF HAIR TESTING
Performing these tests will enable you to determine the best course of action for your clients. It’s also a useful tool when making product recommendations to your clients. By discussing the results of any tests performed, you will gain the client’s trust in your judgment. For more information on this and other topics, or to learn about becoming a hair stylist, click here.
